12.15.2007
12.14.2007
T'boli
I felt so honored to have a homestay arranged with one of our National Artists, Lang Dulay. Beh (grandmother) Lang, as she is fondly called by her populous grand children, is hailed national artist for t'nalak weaving (indigenous loomweaving out of abaca fibers). Since I couldn't speak with her in her native tongue, I chatted with her grandchildren.
Perhaps one of the most interesting conversations in my life, I learned that in the early days, T'boli men can have many wives. The main reason for that is they had to enlarge their clan. That way, the head of the family can become a datu. How can a man be a datu if he has no constituents (or a small family)? So, from only 2 sons of Lang Dulay, one son married 6 wives, the other 9. Just think of how many grand children and greatgrandchildren she has now. They also practiced arranged marriages. So a teenage girl can already get married, have kids, and populate the clan. Can a woman marry out of love? Sadly, arrangements can only be turned down if you're rich enough to return back the dowry which the male's family has given--which is very rare.
Asked how the younger generation are taking it: they're sick and tired of the tradition and would want to find love by choice. The same goes with t'nalak weaving. To them, the entire weaving is a tedious process and is too complicated for them to keep. Most of them would rather get good education and become professionals. Does it mean that as they turn their back, their tribe's culture would die a slow death? I hope not. As I've personally witnessed, there are still many ways they're known for, like their music:
Perhaps one of the most interesting conversations in my life, I learned that in the early days, T'boli men can have many wives. The main reason for that is they had to enlarge their clan. That way, the head of the family can become a datu. How can a man be a datu if he has no constituents (or a small family)? So, from only 2 sons of Lang Dulay, one son married 6 wives, the other 9. Just think of how many grand children and greatgrandchildren she has now. They also practiced arranged marriages. So a teenage girl can already get married, have kids, and populate the clan. Can a woman marry out of love? Sadly, arrangements can only be turned down if you're rich enough to return back the dowry which the male's family has given--which is very rare.
Asked how the younger generation are taking it: they're sick and tired of the tradition and would want to find love by choice. The same goes with t'nalak weaving. To them, the entire weaving is a tedious process and is too complicated for them to keep. Most of them would rather get good education and become professionals. Does it mean that as they turn their back, their tribe's culture would die a slow death? I hope not. As I've personally witnessed, there are still many ways they're known for, like their music:
lake sebu
and so my adventure begins at surallah, where my coordinator Danny Antenor agreed to meet me at the terminal. "are you afraid of riding a motor bike?" came his text. i replied, "No."
as expected, he came with a single motor. and i, with a 10lb-ish pack on my back, was about to experience the bumpiest ride of my life!
not wanting to waste any more precious time, we made our way uphill to Lake Sebu-- a good 30min to an hour trip-- exchanged quick pleasantries with a few locals and headed to the famous??? Seven falls. Two of these are easily accessible to any tourist. I was here to see the other 5.. through an unexplored trail. "Which trail?," you may ask; to which I asked myself, "What trail? There's no trail at all!!!"
It was like that hike to kampung Semuti somewhere in the jungles of Sarawak (Malaysia), but this one is multiplied to the 3rd degree of difficulty!!! I slipped more, fell more, brought home more bruises and insect bites, and my knees were shaking halfway through.
my guides (the Dongon brothers, whose family own the land bordering the falls) were merciless! they just kept on going and going.
There were moments when I wanted to give up, rest for a whole hour, or use my non-existent supernatural powers to fly, but every single time we stopped to enjoy each waterfall, I was instantly invigorated. the view was just glorious.
my favorite would be #5 and #4.
the water fell so strong (i'm not quite sure which words are proper to use to describe it) that it created mists. imagine a giant evian. imagine it spraying not just your face, but your entire body, like a free shower. it was so refreshing. i wasn't totally prepared for it since i expected to take a dip in a pool it would create. so, note to travellers, waterproof everything. get a waterproof camera as well. and if you're planning to take the unexplored "trail", eat a lot. and ask your guide to take lotsa break. i was amazed it only took us 4 hours back and forth. locals said it was a feat! even seasoned climbers couldn't cover it that quickly. also, if the idea of climbing a steep 90deg angle clinging only to roots and crossing rivers don't scare you, then by all means, take this challenge!
my waterfalls exploration was finished off with a trip to one of the easy falls (#1). there, we were met by the other Dongon family (who managed and maintained the falls) and were eager to see photos I took of the other falls. they haven't gone there. after showing them some shots, they were happy that somehow they had a glimpse of it.
as expected, he came with a single motor. and i, with a 10lb-ish pack on my back, was about to experience the bumpiest ride of my life!
not wanting to waste any more precious time, we made our way uphill to Lake Sebu-- a good 30min to an hour trip-- exchanged quick pleasantries with a few locals and headed to the famous??? Seven falls. Two of these are easily accessible to any tourist. I was here to see the other 5.. through an unexplored trail. "Which trail?," you may ask; to which I asked myself, "What trail? There's no trail at all!!!"
It was like that hike to kampung Semuti somewhere in the jungles of Sarawak (Malaysia), but this one is multiplied to the 3rd degree of difficulty!!! I slipped more, fell more, brought home more bruises and insect bites, and my knees were shaking halfway through.
my guides (the Dongon brothers, whose family own the land bordering the falls) were merciless! they just kept on going and going.
There were moments when I wanted to give up, rest for a whole hour, or use my non-existent supernatural powers to fly, but every single time we stopped to enjoy each waterfall, I was instantly invigorated. the view was just glorious.my favorite would be #5 and #4.
the water fell so strong (i'm not quite sure which words are proper to use to describe it) that it created mists. imagine a giant evian. imagine it spraying not just your face, but your entire body, like a free shower. it was so refreshing. i wasn't totally prepared for it since i expected to take a dip in a pool it would create. so, note to travellers, waterproof everything. get a waterproof camera as well. and if you're planning to take the unexplored "trail", eat a lot. and ask your guide to take lotsa break. i was amazed it only took us 4 hours back and forth. locals said it was a feat! even seasoned climbers couldn't cover it that quickly. also, if the idea of climbing a steep 90deg angle clinging only to roots and crossing rivers don't scare you, then by all means, take this challenge!
my waterfalls exploration was finished off with a trip to one of the easy falls (#1). there, we were met by the other Dongon family (who managed and maintained the falls) and were eager to see photos I took of the other falls. they haven't gone there. after showing them some shots, they were happy that somehow they had a glimpse of it.
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